Jump to content

Matt on the Moors

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Matt on the Moors last won the day on October 3 2017

Matt on the Moors had the most liked content!

About Matt on the Moors

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

376 profile views
  1. Looks really good- what's the hammer weight, I assume it's pickup towable? You can buy flexible exhaust extension tube, just measure the exhaust, clamp the extension on and divert to elsewhere. A bit of googling will show up a few options. Augertorque. I'm on my second, they are fantastic bits of kit, tough and not unreasonably priced
  2. It's like most things, it's easy to baulk at the cost initially, but once you get out there and start banging out the jobs you soon forget the money side of things. I'd love a tracked knocker, but I know the versatile nature of my work will render it sitting dormant for long periods. For a full time fencer it's got to be the best choice.
  3. Today's job I though would take 2 hours, Wrong, I finished it at half 6 in the evening! It was to replace 2x gateposts that had rotted off but the stump remained in a ball of concrete 3ft deep that had been tarmaced over. I couldn't dig up the concrete and no scope to reposition the gate. So I ended up using a 6" auger on my digger to gnaw away at the old post stumps leaving the concrete socket which I drove new posts into. It worked but boy it took a long time, more aggressive auger teeth may have helped but wondered how you all deal with this problem- any way of burning out the old posts stumps?
  4. I have no doubts that once setup in the field there is little to beat speed and ease of operation of a tracked machine. But that's not everything, a tractor has some advantages, no unloading for one, tractor can tow a trailer of materials and knocker too so only one setup to take to the job- plus if you have a loader tractor you have something to clear fencelines and load fencing stakes. A track machine is a one trick pony and knocking stakes in may only account for 30% -50% of a jobs time. So you have a huge investment tied up just for that. Having operated both I'd also say that a tractor can be better in some terrains, it's large wheels can adjust better to undulating terrain. Similarly a digger with the RIGHT knocker, a clearing grab, buckets, auger, wire unrolling capabilities is going to be far more versatile- and you will get a lot of ancillary work ditching, groundworks etc which personally I welcombe as I can sit in a heated can with the radio on on a pouring wet day! I also agree with other- the best digger knockers are homemade by those who know what they want from the machine. The P10 is fairly dreadful- the geometry is all set up wrong for a small digger and it's unstable and makes for untidy fencing. If however you do mega stretches of stock fencing- plan on towing with the tractor and fence pretty much 100% of the time a tracked knocker may be the best option for you.
  5. I'm sure I'm getting more gripples that don't grip the wire properly- I love gripples but find it annoying when they let the wire slip under even moderate load.
  6. I think there will always be jobs to be done by hand- most likely on a more domestic basis. Stuff like dog/garden/poultry fencing, where access or perhaps being too small a job to entice a contractor to bring all the machinery along for. Personally I wouldn't want to do it this way- mainly to preserve my body more than anything but also I'm not that fond of the fiddly little jobs. That said, Warwickshire is going to be far better ground- not much of a livestock area compared to other parts of the country.
  7. Mark- that's the second time youve bought fancy fencing tackle only to revert to good old homemade digger setup- I think that speaks volumes. If you get a moment I'd love to see pics of your new knocker if you fancy sharing the recipe! Agree, I think most contractors running tracked knockers are overweight with them behind a pickup. I keeping thinking about converting a protect P30 contractor model (550kg) and put it on a smaller 2ton tracked dumper or even take digging arm off 1.5 digger and mount a knocker onto the king post to get 360 rotation whilst keeping the weight in nice and close...
  8. I looked into this a lot when I got my 2.8t digger. Purpose made plant trailer will do it- Ifor make ones which is under 700kg in weight. For years I just used an ifor 10x6 flatbed stripped down with no sides, just ramps- this did it legally and the trailer was more versatile too.
  9. I had a x2000 augertorque on my old Tak tb016. It worked well up to 12". Both by augers have tungsten tip- not really sure there is any advantage to having a lesser tip other than a minimal cost saving
  10. Yes as above. Sometimes I use temporary electric fence stakes to hold the line at the right height over undulations. You can strain out one line at ground level stab all you stakes in pinching holes if necessary then being same line upto 3ft height. Once you get all that setup it's super fast getting the stakes in as you can see all the time your knocking whether you are against the line making small adjustments whilst knocking.
  11. Straining a line wire at 3ft height is quite a good way- stab all the stakes in so you know that when it is nearly touching the line wire as they go in it should be pretty straight. This way once all the stakes are stabbed in you can knock them all in without getting out the cab.
  12. Probably 150 times into the tractor and 150 out but you get my point!
  13. The problem I have yet to overcome is getting strainer post to stand up on their own until I get back to the can and drop the knocker over them.? Thinking of a tripod stand- basically a large ring with 3 legs so that you just put the post through the ring and it will stand up. Of course no problem using tractor but I'm getting seriously bad knees and climbing up in to the tractor 300 times a day plus the clutch work is starting to take it's toll.
  14. Hi Foster. Think simple! I just use a plumb line hanging off the post. Basically a 3-4ft length of electric fence wire with a weight hanging at the bottom. I have a slip loop so I just hang and choke round the top of each post and the weight hangs giving the vertical in both planes. the weight does swing a bit with each hit but somehow it's still easy to see if the post is going in true with a bit of practise. My fences have never been straighter and I often check a post with the spirit level and it's usually pretty much spot on. It sounds like a faff to setup but it isn't and in fact is probably quicker than using a spirit level and waiting for the bible to right itself and you can see both planes at once. I just stab a post in attach the plumb line get in and knock it in, get out move like line to the next post at the same time look back down your fence line if the post you have just done needs tweaking the machine is still next to it to do so before moving onto the next post. Takes about an hour to do 100 meters of posts roughly on my own in this manner
  15. No in my opinion, I feel it you as the worker agree to doing something my hour or meter than you accept that that is the method by which the final bill is calculated. Would it work the other way around you did 9 hours but decided to round it down to 8 to keep it a day. No- thought not! Being self employed you decide how you work- if customer doesn't want to do a day rate- give them a price per job- which is what I nearly always do so there can be no disagreements. Just my thoughts- like.
  • Create New...