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RCCM

Contractor
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Everything posted by RCCM

  1. I think the bottom line over here with our treatment is it doesn't work, regardless of treatment penetration. Timber species is important but since 2004 when the arsenic was removed from the CCA treatment they may as well be spraying them in green paint for the level of protection it offers.
  2. Make your own... I did, cost about £500 all in, specifically for deer fencing although will do all other heights. Mounting it on the front loader of a tractor is not the best in my experience unless it's very large and we'll built. A tele handler is much better, stronger and you can simply boom out to tighten. In the mud I have had issues with the netting/clamp arm being so far to one side that the tractor gets pulled about when driving forwards to strain up. But less so with a tele handler.
  3. RCCM

    gates

    I use a laser level to mark the two gate posts and check for levels and any ground clearance issues. I have some cheap scissor car jacks to sit the matched pair on so you can wind them up or down to find level and slide them left or right to get my spacing on the posts identical and the gap in the middle. Then mark and drill them.
  4. How close are those inters? They look very close! Is that part of a race?
  5. What size post spanner are you after?
  6. I'd be interested to see them too
  7. I use trust insurance based in Northamptonshire. They are a small company which I have my vehicles, house, P.L, E.L plant and tool cover with. I think to insure everything plant and tool related was about £750 including my vector.
  8. I'm sure you've seen my petrol winder I made for winding up barbed wire and line wire into nice neat coils which could be reused if you wanted to. It's on my Facebook page. Thinking about selling it.
  9. There are a few like a t11/155/7.5 and X knot equivalents like xht15/158/7.5
  10. Or falcon workshop for fixings
  11. RCCM

    Works contract

    Just use a JCT contract. Whenever I have done very big contracts we have used a fairly standard jct and been through it and deleted and amended certain sections or terms that weren't a pliable or quite right.
  12. Doing a figure of 8 with your stay wire on the box is more dangerous to stock. We had a deer caught up in the upper part of the 8 on a box someone else had done. If you do an open loop, they just slide down to the bottom.
  13. Hi there, As most others here will agree, full height boxes are the best form of support. I can build one in the same time as an angled Strutt, as I find cutting the angles and mortice neatly and correctly is quite time consuming as well as getting the strutt and stob tight. I can drive the second post of the box in and know that the horizontal brace or Strutt will always be tight and I can carve out a mortice with my carving saw using the jigs I have for marking, quicker than fitting a normal Strutt. I use a small dewalt laser measurer to put in the back of the mortice and shine it at the back of the other mortice to give me the exact length of the post/Strutt which makes it possible to do on your own instead of trying to hold a wobbly tape measure especially on deer fencing. The only difference in cost, is an extra post but a lighter shorter strainer can be used. The amount of 2.5mm ht line wire used for the stay or brace wire is minimal and either a crimp or gripple to tension. I don't like gripples personally, and instead always use crimps and then a couple of wraps on eac end wit the tail and then do your breaks. G PAKS are a complete waste of time and money. Gripple tools seem to shred the gpak cable very easily too. Use 2.5mm HT wrapped twice round. Doing it this way they never seem to move or the stay wire go slack. I have visited boxes years later and the stay wire is still super taught. My latest deer height boxes use a 3.6m machine round pole and I have a 100mm forstner bit in my petrol drill which creates the best fit imaginable and the most contact/bearing surface possible. Most of my fencing is deer fencing. So all of it is a box of one description or another. I do use half height boxes with a stout deer intermediate for the inline strainer just driven much deeper and another for the horizontal strutt. They are pretty strong but not like a full height box. They are sometimes useful to support a turn post built sticking out exactly half of the change in direction. Usually i use half height boxes to exclude deer and proper full height boxes to keep them in.
  14. use the tornado easy reels of plain line wire. much easier for everything, no more spinning jenny's.
  15. Likewise, pm me and I can email one across for you to modify.
  16. Perfect, that's alright then. Personally if it was me spending my money again on a tracked knocker, it would be a solotrak
  17. Out of curiosity, how are you planning on transporting them?
  18. And we did it at 1.8m intervals which as Mikew said it would get expensive over 158m however it gives a stronger fence especially if you are using 75mm posts.
  19. I've nailed 38x87 rails on 75/100mm inters quite successfully and strongly but you need to be pretty precise with your post spacing and driving.
  20. Thank you both. My feeling was that if they are spaced evenly around the posts circumference then the weight of each should counteract each other. WFF - what was that yard and raceway of gates all for?
  21. Just a quick one for you all. I have a junction in part of a race to complete where it needs to 2x 16ft gates and 1x 12ft gate all hung on the same gate post. The post is a 3.8m x 300mm diameter creo strainer so will be in the ground about 1.6m ish. The gates will each be hung a third of the way round the post from the last or thereabouts. The gates are the chainlink Hayes deer gates so fairly light. Have many of you hung multiple gates on a single post without anything adverse happening over time?
  22. Looks very good, well done, certainly nice and compact. What weight is the hammer? Is that 300kg on there? What is the pivoting box section on the front side of the mast? Is that the rock spike frame?
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