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West Fork Fence

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West Fork Fence last won the day on October 26 2018

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About West Fork Fence

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  • Birthday 30/01/1978

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    Worthington, Indiana United States

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  1. Buy a Stockade and only cry once. If you want to give my wife a call, she'll fix you up with a stapler and the t post clips you were after. 844-48-FENCE
  2. I suppose it would be similar, but not suitable for muck or sand. Email me your phone number, and I'll send you a picture. luke@farmfencesolutions.com
  3. A tieback isn't the same as a foot, and doesn't mean that wire and knots have to be involved. It would just be an additional way to keep a turn post or strainer from heaving in light soil. Sometimes, after the wire is strung, we will have to weld from the top of a turn post, down to a very large stubby that is driven on the outside of the turn. Of course it's braced to the inside, but sometimes in muck or sand it'll want to lift no matter what you do. That's when we weld on a "tieback". It could also be done below grade, if there were a reason you couldn't have some bracing above grade. A stubby is the pipe driven all the way into the ground that the angled bit is welded to on the low side.
  4. I would drive them, even in soft soil. If it's that soft, weld some more on and keep driving. If it's soup, weld in a tieback after you plant 20' of pipe. We use SS40 galvanized here, since it's wet. A pipe H brace would still need some sort of diagonal support, so that's why you will normally see just an N brace, or an H with the N. I have seen some pipe H braces with a brace wire, and it proved effective. Like OFF says, the angled brace is a necessary part of a welded assembly. If it's soft, we'll use a "stubby" up to 10' long driven sub grade. Ol' Fence will be glad to see this conversation.
  5. How will you be using it, loader mount or three point? In my limited experience with both of them, the Solo seems a bit better thought out. I tried a QF on a skid steer, and never could get as tight as I wanted, and I don't think the side load was doing the loader arms any good. The two Solo's I've been around were tractor and Solo track mounted, respectively. Only got to see one hitch with the little one, but the big Solo net was impressive, for the most part. Again, my experience with each is fairly limited. Tepapa has a pair of Solo nets, so maybe he'll be along soon.
  6. 12.5 gauge HT for your brace wire. 2 or 3 complete wraps in a figure 8 pattern. Tension and join with a crimp sleeve, a tex brown knot, a gripple, or a ratchet strainer. Gripple also makes a quick brace kit, and my wife will be glad to sell them to you. They are the handiest if you are only building a few braces. 844-48-FENCE
  7. There is more to it than that. Shoot me a text, and I'll tell you what I know. Eight One Two 798 forty six 0 four. Not an appropriate conversation for the entire interwebs to find. Also, this is way cheaper than you think. ? http://protechmachinery.co.uk/html/products/P30-contractor.html
  8. It depends. Cheaper than creosote for us, but that’s just the front end. 100 years divided by 25 years equals a whole lot cheaper than anything you can buy. Nailing down efficient availability was the toughest part for us, but we figured it out. I’ll ask my guys about the left coast, and where you should look. Just loaded another pic for you. Took over a year to square that deal. You can’t judge book by the cover. Test results are a must these days.
  9. SS40 Class III. Problems are over, and easier to install.
  10. I added some pictures for you. At first glance, I would have thought that to be a pretty bad post. All wood is not created equal, and it appears that you have a well treated post, assuming the retention rate is up to snuff, and there really is that much heartwood in there. If that were southern yellow pine, it’d be a five year post at best. The pic with the last paragraph outlined in red should be of particular interest. You are entitled to test results.
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