tepapa

Did you make any improvements or just copy like for like?

Looks electric, if so and he didn't pay I'd earth it well in a few hidden places, will be no use with no power going through it. 

If the posts are dry and dipped for a few days they will take in more than 30p worth of creo without any labour.

Yep, use the auger all the time, haven't even bothered to use the rock spike yet. Will get much deeper into rock and shale than with the rock spike. Just takes time grinding away

No link to kinghitter.

No drawbacks as yet, I had the machine for two weeks to see what I wanted/needed and we ammended/fitted thing's to suit me.

These work really well RED STAG. I am very impressed.

Si HVB, you need to make some!

I've made them 1.3m long so I can do a 1.2m high fence and still knock a little in the ground

I've just made a couple of those but not used them yet, I was going to hold in place with nails but I will copy your staple idea now, thanks

What's that random gate hook doing?

There was no way I would get even tension on netting down the dip without a bag of gripples and a lot of patience but I don't use gripples and I don't have that much patience.

Customer happy, he's got a tight fence that should last a long time.

The inters aren't spaced far apart but was thinking of a couple of batons to make it look the part, but I need to buy some small staples so it wont happen until I have a bigger job for some

Ordinarily I would have used the clapping post as the strainer set plumb for the gate, to save on the cost, but grant spec does not allow the gate to close to the strainer so I had to put in two.

As for the strainer its put in exactly as it would be if the ground was flat, if you were to put it plumb it would just be easier for the laws of physics to pull it out and I don't want that 

Aye, I've been replacing fences put up in 1974, railway sleepers as strainers and struts(thanks to lord beeching) and B/8/80/15. The netting had rusted through

Well the struts clearly not doing anything resting on the wire so why waste time and materials strutting incorrectly where its not needed?

Tidy work!

What would you pay to put it  right do you mean? :-) lol

Ye strainrite gauge. Have never figured out what exactly half a crimp size looks like, was thinking if you could make some sort of channel that would only fit over a crimp when at half size but not when slack.

The solonet is kind of self regulating as if you over tension too much it will pull side ways. so if it stops moving forward and starts sideways, your at about right tension to lose a little after tying off the fence and it will settle back to correct tension.

I am working with Simon to see if we can put some sort of gauge on it to stop people pulling out the far strainer. It shouldn't happen but you have got the power of a tractor pulling and with a monkey in the seat, who knows what can happen.

Didn't know that, its what the gauge reads when tight. If its wrong its wrong, but it is tight!

I used a gauge  more when I was starting to get an idea of how tight it was meant to be, now a lot is done by feel and I use the gauge to compare top to the bottom of net. The numbers may not mean anything but the tension is comparable.

Do you think customers appreciate the amount of work that goes into fencing somewhere like that?

And I hope that's not a gateway.

I may be wrong but don't they put a strand on top of net around forestry's too, to take the loading of fallen trees?

We only get the snow loading, like what you can get, in a couple off places round here but you might have something in the 8/9 wires though, they haven't fenced most of NZ like that for no reason. They tried it this way many decades ago but I don't think they kept up with the maintenance of re-tensioning wire and if one wire snapped there was a  hole that nobody really knew how to fix, and net was easier and the rest is history.

I put my faith in the quality of Tornado HT wire. If I needed to run extra lines I think I would change supplier :-)

Ye, all fencing round here, since forever, has stock fence hard stapled to the side, There's even some hard stapling HT to the side of posts!!! (Disaster waiting to happen) Couple of fencers will hard staple to side and then tie wire off round but just twisted round not a termination knot

There's a 6x3 block driven at the angle of the bottom of the stay, up to 1m deep, if it wont go down you can dig it in sideways.  There's not enough stones of the right dimensions around here and you can spend longer (all day) looking for them so its a lot easier and quicker to supply a block.  I find it very annoying that merchants only stock strainers and posts and occasionally struts but I've never come across one that supplies a purpose made breast block.    

Sorry premnayloon but your wedge wouldn't do for me either, cant see how you can get enough ground contact, and those wedges split if you hit them too hard. Kiwis will go as far as putting 1.5-1.8m long blocks if needed so I don't see how a 30-40cm wedge is enough. Don't take it personally its just my opinion. 

Never, I don't understand why its done. Would rather put a strand underneath to lift height of fence.

How long is the strain?

I don't know what's worse, cutting the tops or posting a picture with them on the ground? :-)