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gate hanging posts how deep


Rossco

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Generally u use 8ft post driven in until top is at the height it needs to be, depending on the terrain etc, then it can swing open. Sometimes height of gate and post are flush, most of the time the post is 2-3 inch higher.

I've never had to reset a post I've driven in due to it moving.

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For anything up to a 12ft single then an 8' post is usually fine, anything bigger and I will use a 9, especially as in most gateways they are rarely level and often slump off to the edges of a track etc and before you know it you need an extra foot. Also for doubles when using over 10' gates then I always use 9' posts, I have done loads of field entrances with 9' telegraph poles and 10 and 12' doubles and none of them have moved yet. I try and knock all gate posts in including squares, I find it so much easier, cheaper and a better job. I am trying to make digging holes a thing of the past!!

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Yep I with u on that one am going to get a hole punch for square gate posts . There a lot off benefits easier faster cheaper plus the ground gets compressed making for a stronger job

 

 

Do you mean a square cap to fit on the cap as in the "Adapt-a-cap?post-twister.jpg

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accommodating the differences in the weathered tops is the hardest bit, the three main suppliers around me all have different angles on their square post tops so I just nip the very top off and drive it in keeping it true with a twister. The adapt a caps are ok but when a post is twisting you need to be correcting it at the bottom otherwise the timber allows too much twist, also when you take the cap off it can suddenly spring round and by then its too late. At least with a bar you can get a feel of where its going and its a lot cheaper! that's only my opinion though, although I bet the caps shown above are not cheap?

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Its not on my post driver, its off the Bryce website, I do have one 6x3 inch and its a doddle for post and rail work to use. However as Mikew says

 

accommodating the differences in the weathered tops is the hardest bit, the three main suppliers around me all have different angles on their square post tops so I just nip the very top off and drive it in keeping it true with a twister. The adapt a caps are ok but when a post is twisting you need to be correcting it at the bottom otherwise the timber allows too much twist, also when you take the cap off it can suddenly spring round and by then its too late. At least with a bar you can get a feel of where its going and its a lot cheaper! that's only my opinion though, although I bet the caps shown above are not cheap?

 

If you get a difficult post that won't play fair you do have to use other methods. Also the hydraulic ram only has a limited range sometimes say in a corner where it needs to be 90 degree out  from the line I use a homemade bar to hold/adjust the adapter cap.

 

 I got mine when I bought the machine along with quadshift in 2011. It was less than £500.  I didnt get rock spike as I seldom get off clay or sandy soils. But less than 5 times it would of been handy.

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DMac The picture is off jocks website

The hole puncher is a great bit of kit it punches a hole 30"deep and 12" diameter it's fantastic for 5/3 posts to concrete posts in with self mix or post mix but struggle to get enough material round on anything bigger. We use ours for post & rails especial on horse manages when using longer posts. You probably know Jock dose a cap that fits your machine for driving 2.4. 200/200. AW. gate posts in

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We have a hole pucnher as rob says pics should be on Protech page and probably our front row page.

It is a good bit of kit for sure. However we got it mainly for a commercial job we were doing and hopefully another one we might win. Hoping for 500 metres of weld mesh on farm land and it will be a god send.

I probably wouldn't use it on gate posts though as this three mentions. Majority of the time around us we are lucky enough to be able to knock them in. Sometimes we need a point and sometimes they go in flat needed. I do think that an 8 x 8 locked in won't really need anything else around it to keep it firm. We always keep gates and fence separate where we can and that helps,as well I think.

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