ffencing Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 I've a couple of jobs that aren't going to be suitable for the tractor mounted Bryce, one due to access width and not being to able to get in the field with a tractor and the second working on a steepish bank with overhanging trees for good measure. (Hence my thread about post drivers for mini diggers). Got a mini digger mounted auger and so was thinking of augering the holes and postcrete/concreting/tamping. Does anyone do much of this, how well will 4-5" inter stakes take being tamped into an 8" augered hole? Will postcreted strainers be up to straining the same day (will be box strainers). Any thoughts most appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
premnayloon Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 A builder gave me a tip about postcrete, the wetter the better when you use it, the water is what makes it work he always said to make sure it's wetter than you think it should be, hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 why not drive the inters in with a drivall? auger the strainers maybe but I have got a big drivall that will take 6" strainers so I usually dig a tight 2' deep hole, soak with water if need be and then knock them in. surprising how well it goes. I'm not keen on augering and back ramming, time consuming and never seem to get them so tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliehub Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 If your going to use postcrete make sur you use class 4 posts as you don't want to be the one replacing them in 6 years time ! If your going to ram them up fit a foot to the bottom of the strangers first this makes a massive difference to them holding tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffencing Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 If your going to use postcrete make sur you use class 4 posts as you don't want to be the one replacing them in 6 years time ! If your going to ram them up fit a foot to the bottom of the strangers first this makes a massive difference to them holding tight Yes will be top notch creosoted posts, think for the effort of fitting foots, plates and anchors too strainers to ram them tight, you're as well to postcrete them excepting the risk of rot that can be magnified by being set in concrete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffencing Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 why not drive the inters in with a drivall? auger the strainers maybe but I have got a big drivall that will take 6" strainers so I usually dig a tight 2' deep hole, soak with water if need be and then knock them in. surprising how well it goes. I'm not keen on augering and back ramming, time consuming and never seem to get them so tight. The drivall is for strictly emergencies, if there's any chance at all, no matter how small, of getting a machine close to the job then that's the way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D A MacDougall Fencing Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 To me using post create for stanier post is not a good way off doing it but everyone got there way.. Bits like this I dig a pack straning post footed and faced . Iv got a still auger with a 4 inch auger for pilot holes then use the man killer to knock them in quick and simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbell Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 don't use postcrete, we had a job last ear to replace all the strainers on a fence that had been concreted in, put a foot on the bottom of your strainer and a breast plat on the front and it shouldn't move, i don't know how you usally strut but long and low is the way i do them 9' strut about 20" up from the ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tepapa Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Postcrete NO! Tamp down consontrating on the bottom and top of the hole, if their box strainers there will be less need for foots( less lifting forces) but I still would for piece of mind and u could strain straight away, the digging is the hard part and u have an auger for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tepapa Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 You would only need to foot the termination strainer. Tie 4mm mild wire to a block, block In hole, half ram up, pull wire up tight and staple off, finish ramming up, only takes minutes and no worries. There is a good thread on swinging feet on here somewhere, with good pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffencing Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffencing Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Video above from our site hosts shows it quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffencing Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 a 4 inch auger for pilot holes then use the man killer to knock them in quick and simple I did wonder about getting a 4 or 3 inch auger for making pilot holes, but Auger Torques smallest auger for my drive head is 150mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D A MacDougall Fencing Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 I don't use it that much but when I have does the job well. I v been using it for footing driven straning post aswell . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tepapa Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Video above from our site hosts shows it quite well.That's old school, weve moved onto swinging feet now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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