DWJONES fencing Posted June 14, 2015 Report Posted June 14, 2015 Anyone done much of this fencing? Its 3 crocked rails that slot inside of the post. (Cant upload a pucture but could email it!). I take it the post have to be dug in? What would be a good distance for two people to put up in a day? On good soil ( not hard and rocky), never done this kind before thanks
HenryG Posted June 14, 2015 Report Posted June 14, 2015 Do you mean the chestnut post and rail? The bent hand cut wood? Or the square rails with the 45 degree cut angles on the ends that meet inside a 6x3" post?
DWJONES fencing Posted June 14, 2015 Author Report Posted June 14, 2015 Yeah the chestnut post and rail, i can send you a picture via email if you like. Dont know how to on this
HenryG Posted June 14, 2015 Report Posted June 14, 2015 It's a lot quicker if you use chestnut posts as well as rails as you won't need to use a level, so long as it looks right by eye it's fine! We tend to drive the very first post in to the right height so it firm to come off of, then half drill the holes put the rails in the post and tap down to the right height, just makes it a nice strong fence before you pack the dirt back round, 2 of us in good ground would want to achieve min 28 to 30 bays a day with chestnut posts
Gordon McMillan Posted June 14, 2015 Report Posted June 14, 2015 Do you use a router of some description to get the holes notched out posts or do the posts come ready to use?
DWJONES fencing Posted June 14, 2015 Author Report Posted June 14, 2015 Henryg thanks for the info, i persumed that the posts came ready notched?!
HenryG Posted June 15, 2015 Report Posted June 15, 2015 Yes posts are already notched, end the rails as you go with a chainsaw as they will vary in length slightly, cut 3 the same length and end both ends with out moving the rail this way the ends will line up with each other, use a bill hook if you need to trim the ends to fit in the posts...... If you are using 6x3" posts ensure they are notched before treatment otherwise if mortaced after treatment they will be white inside and will need to be re treated, with the rails ensure the bark is under the rail and the 2 'white' sides of the rail are facing up.... I have pics of that's a bit confusing......
MikeW Posted June 19, 2015 Report Posted June 19, 2015 Used your technique this week henry and it worked really well so will be adopting that in future! Another thing I do to make it stock proof on smaller stretches where looks can be important is drill through the middles of the posts between the rails once or twice and thread plan wire through, tie off both ends and tension with a gripple. From a distance its hardly noticeable, it works very well and you don't need 1 staple, as I have seen stock net stapled all over these type of fences before and can spoil it in my opinion,
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