Post Driver Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 I'm struggling with a bit of ground at the minute. It's Orange clay and flint over chalk and pretty dry 6 inches down. As such the 5x3 posts (unpointed) are slow going in and springing out of plumb once I lift the post cap off. Some of the posts will nudge plumb with the side shift but others won't budge and I've cracked a few trying to push and pull them about. I've had this before but not this bad, it's every post pretty much. I'm wondering how people get on with square rock spikes? I'm thinking the rock spike will go down and smash the flints or chip them allowing a plumb hole? Rather than the post being mashed by the flints and diving off on the path of least resistence. Am I on the right track? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robsweetingfencing Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 I have one for my hd180 it's worked the few times I've had to use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Fencin Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 See image 1008x and 1009xhttp://www.brycesuma.co.uk/index.php?mact=Album,me18c8,default,1&me18c8albumid=14&me18c8returnid=54&page=54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevew Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 We have the standard 75 ml round. A 6/3. Square and what jock calls a bomb 8"/30" all work extremely we'll as long as you put them in with the level. Ok it takes twice as long useing the spikes but you can keep putting timber in the ground when the ground is hard, you don't snap the timber it goes in straight and saves the time trying to straighten the line use them a lot and would not be without Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliehub Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 We use a home made one when the Warwickshire clay is baked hard works really well and like Steve says takes longer but as long as you put it in with a level the post goes in true so no messing around trying to straighten post up also no stress on the post see our Facebook video https://www.facebook.com/201676763210091/videos/1014100995300993/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Post Driver Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Thanks for the replies fellas. Looks like it could be a solution. I'm gonna have a crack over the other side of the field tomorrow and see if it's any better. Fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I find in most cases that my 75mm rockspike hole filled with water and left to soak works. The only problem where the ground is so hard is that when the timber is warped, which I find it often is, then however straight the hole is, it is still difficult to get the posts plumb as they spring out when the post cap is removed. If it is that bad, especially on chalk I auger a hole and then knock in, I know it takes a bit longer but saves beating the posts to death and mushrooming the tops. Just out of interest why are you using un pointed posts and knocking them in in hard ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Post Driver Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I tried the rock spike and a 2 way point on the posts but they still sprung out of plumb. That's why I was wondering about the square rock spike for smashing the flints that are deflecting the posts. We use unpointed posts as they usually drive straighter with less twisting and deviation. Also, if they do go off line it is easier to lean them over and drift them back to line. And they are cheaper... doesn't take long to put a point on a pack of posts with a sharp chainsaw should they need it. It was easier going over the other side of the field in the open, so I think it's just bad ground and still dry. I'll spike and water a few up tomorrow, see what that does for it. Watering posts in November, that's a first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliehub Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 We always use flat ended posts if the posts are sawn...never use pointed if we are driving them in find if they are pointed the point tends to take the easiest route so sends the post off in all directions where as with a flat end it generally pushes stones etc out of the way and stays truer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 That's quite interesting, I have never knocked flat bottomed posts so will give it a try, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goaty Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I agree. Using a heavy weight flat post bottoms are best . On the pleasant flat soils of East Yorkshire I have got away without a rock spike, however this year I have wished I had specified one a few times on post and rail jobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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