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Steel Corner post Questions


wildchild58
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Hello , I am planing on redoing an existing fence as my wooden corner posts have rotten off .  I was wondering if any one knew how large of a diameter steel pipe i would need for my corners . The length of the fence is 600ft for each of the 4 sides . The soil in my location is Mexico silt loam .( im in Missouri ) . I was going to use Woven wire most likely red brand as i don't believe tornado wire is sold at my location ,but i would love to use it (my previous red brand has rusted quite alot over 17years ). I currently have sheep ,but am thinking about getting a cow . If anyone knows the calculations for the steel pipe as well that would be great ! I am currently an engineering major and i find the math interesting as well as reassuring . I was thinking i could use 2 &3/8 Galvanized schedule 40 pipe for my corners,but i have been driving around and i am noticing alot of farmers are using 4" galvanized  1/8 wall ( .125 or 11gauge ) pipe. I also was going to hang a gate on two of the corners . Any information would be great! I can also weld so i should be able to make my own braces . With that being said could anyone explain the difference between the H braces (which i usually see on wood corners) and N braces which im noticing on steel corners . I suspect it has to do with horizontal tension force being applied to the post so that it can redistribute the load so it doesn't get yanked out of the ground by the wire , but am still unsure . One last question How much force would a cow have if it ran into the corner  ? Oh the reason i am wanting to use steel corners is because the price for 8" wood posts (8') is nearly 40$ a post and i may as well just spend the money on something that looks nice & will last a long time.

-mug

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  • 6 months later...

Interesting question, personally I've seen alot of things work out just fine as a <a href="http://www.billingsagriculturalfencingpros.weebly.com">corner post</a>.  In Australia, we tend to have a thick clayey soil which loosens considerably as the ground dries out during the dry season.  Therefore, using a bigger, heavier post was a priority, as was using concrete to help add weight when the fence tension starts pulling your posts over!  I usually went with 8"-12" diameter 1/4" pipe; probably never anything smaller than 6", but that's just my personal preference.  We also used "floating stays", that is, angled 2" pipe braces which seated to the post about 4' off the ground, and ran along the fence to a 2' by 2' concrete pad.  This in turn had a 3/4" steel threaded rod linking to the brace and post, with a nut and washer to tighten against the post to keep fence tension.  I'm not sure if this method is highly used, but it was pretty effective and eliminated the need to do much post pulling or straightening by tractor as one occasionally must do.  Probably sounds a little confusing, but Patriot North America does a pretty good explanation on YouTube if you need it.  Hope this helps... btw H braces are also effective, but if your soil is loose I'd try the method I described.  Good luck!

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