Haydn Gleave Fencing Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Just wondering if anyone knew the correct spacing of rails for post and rail, from 2 to 4 rails would be great if anyone knew. Many Thanks, Haydn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HenryG Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 2 rail you want 22 inches 3 rail will be either 15 or 18 inches (depending on fence height) and 4 rail is 12 inches, measurement should be from top of rail to top of rail hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
premnayloon Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 That sounds about right my last 4 rail fence, I had 8 inch spacers between each rail so if you add the rail is 4 inch, that works out right, Does anyone else do what I do and run all the bottom rails first, then when happy with their positions you just the cut spacers and crack on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HenryG Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 No I always do top rail first to make sure it looks right with the ground then all the other rails follow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
premnayloon Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I suppose if you have someone helping then top one is fine but for me myself it's easier easier to go from bottom up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D A MacDougall Fencing Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I don't do a lot off post and rail like use guys but when I do i try work out what the custom er wants a nice Loki ng fence that runes well with the ground our a fence that does its job and is strong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haydn Gleave Fencing Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Brilliant thanks HenryG, just what I wanted to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbell Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 we tend to do 5 rails and the spacings get bigger as they go up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontrowfencing Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 We always work from the top down as well. Get the fence looking somewhere near, then add bottom rails and finally give a last tweak. Our spacings all vary depending on fence height etc. but those measurements sound not to bad to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haydn Gleave Fencing Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 we tend to do 5 rails and the spacings get bigger as they go up What are the measurements for that then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontrowfencing Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 When we do 5 rail Haydn, we use spaces of 6 inch, 6 inch, 4 inch and then 3 inch. This is the spacings between bottom of the rail to the top of the one below. But this is our spacings when using them in gate wings with stock net, probably be slightly different on post and rail. Best thing to do, is to semi nail your rails on and stand back, have a look and see what you think it looks like. If not happy change it. At the end of the day, it is not about having a set figure, but more what it looks like in the surroundings. In my opinion anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
premnayloon Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I agree every post and rail will be different the key is to go with the ground d if it's running up hill or down hill. Of course and bumps and hollows will be levelled out, some told me to also leave a 2-3 mm gap between each rail where they meet on th posts tags the timber will expand and shrink and if you have the rails meeting and not leaving a gap they will twist or bend instead of moving at the joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliehub Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 We do loads of post and rail, we have made up steel guide frames for all sorts of different rail spacing these sit on top of the post and hold the rails in the correct place making railing up a one man job, the main thing is to make sure that all the posts are to the correct height first, we lay the rails out on the ground to use as markers for the posts and put up a string line, then about 8 posts down the line set a maker to the correct height and use this as a sight line, while one chap knocks the post in the other sight lines and tells the operator how far to go, once we have done 8 posts we always rail up and then start again. this way a good sight man can grade the posts so they follow and dips or rises. I've just stuck two videos on our facebook page if you want to take a look https://www.facebook.com/pages/J-Hubbard-Son-Ltd/201676763210091?pnref=lhc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haydn Gleave Fencing Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 We do loads of post and rail, we have made up steel guide frames for all sorts of different rail spacing these sit on top of the post and hold the rails in the correct place making railing up a one man job, the main thing is to make sure that all the posts are to the correct height first, we lay the rails out on the ground to use as markers for the posts and put up a string line, then about 8 posts down the line set a maker to the correct height and use this as a sight line, while one chap knocks the post in the other sight lines and tells the operator how far to go, once we have done 8 posts we always rail up and then start again. this way a good sight man can grade the posts so they follow and dips or rises. I've just stuck two videos on our facebook page if you want to take a look https://www.facebook.com/pages/J-Hubbard-Son-Ltd/201676763210091?pnref=lhc I think I might fabricate myself one of those! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haydn Gleave Fencing Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Many thanks for the responses fellas, certainly put my mind at ease now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliehub Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 If your going to make one we found 20mm box is best you don't want it two wide or it changes the setting if the rails are going down hill as they sit on the higher side of the frame and if you make the rail support bits about 10/15mm wider than the rails it gives enough room the slide the rail in easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Post Driver Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Thanks for sharing that Charlie, interesting g yo see other people techniques. How do you get on with the Paslode and P&R? I had a real bad case of rails twisting once and the Paslode didnt help much. They were spruce rails like Balsa wood, rubbish. The clipped head and thin shank added to the problem and ended in a dogs dinner! Paslode are so rapid tho, and easy to swing about all day compared to a hose and pneumatic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliehub Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 No problem We've had our issues with Paslode over the years but mostly sorted when we changed to the im90 guns you get a full round head on the nails and more power they also work to -8 so no problems when cold still get the odd nail not going all the way in but a quick chase up with a hamer sorts it We always use ring shank nail smooth will pull out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HenryG Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I always just use hammer and 4" galv nails and mix 5" nails on the cundey rails, if rails are laid out and no cutting needed then I can average 100m 3 rail per hour anyway based on sawn fencing we always tend to do couple days of driving posts then rail up if job is big enough to allow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
premnayloon Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I bought a Hitachi nail gun, the guy from paslode moved to Hitachi and took the patent with him, so paslode gas and nails work in the Hitachi gun and its nearly half the price any joiner I spoke to rates it as good as paslode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliehub Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 The new Paslode guns use different gas and nails and are under a new patent as the old one ran out but they are loads better when it comes to power but on the down side you have to use the more expensive Paslode nails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
premnayloon Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I would recommend the Hitachi the price of it is great value for money, I found it handles 2 inch rails no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliehub Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Just a pic of one of the rail frames that we use spacing is up to you but the rail pegs are 55mm long welded to the uprite and the top bit that hangs on the top of the post is 160mm Long all 20mm box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haydn Gleave Fencing Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Thanks Charlie, what are the measurements of your spacing between each peg? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliehub Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 With three rail we normally have the top rail 75mm down from the top of the post and about 275mm between the rails with post at 1.2m out the ground but depends what your keeping in ..4 rail even spacing for horses but bottom rails closer if sheep it's ip to you and your customer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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